All Steamed Up
Elvis might have swiveled and crooned in Florida in his 1967 movie Clambake, but true lobster lovers know the real thing is a New England specialty. Here's what you need to create this classic shore fest, according to T.R. McGrath, bake master and owner of McGrath Clambakes in Newport, RI (401.847.7743; riclambake.com). The menu includes lobsters, clams, mussels, corn (in the husk), potatoes and sausage - chourice, a Portuguese-style pork sausage, is McGrath's favorite. To start his clambakes, McGrath builds a wood bonfire, stacking old shipping pallets, usually made of oak, to create the base. As the wood burns, he layers rocks on the fire and adds more wood, brushing away the ashes until the rocks are superheated, which takes about an hour and a half. He recommends granite or fieldstone rocks, about 8 to 12 inches in
diameter. Next comes a blanket, about a foot thick, of saltwater-soaked rockweed - a variety of seaweed that's pulled off the rocks on the New England coastline and sports tiny sacks of air and saltwater. "That's a key ingredient, because it gives the food that salty flavor," says McGrath. "As soon as it hits the hot rocks, the bubbles start crackling, almost like popcorn." (nonbeach combers can order seaweed from their local fish market). Individual portions, including the lobster and all the trimmings, are wrapped in cheesecloth pouches and stacked on the greenery, and the steaming begins. Cover the whole production with untreated canvas or burlap cloth that's been soaked in water (fresh or ocean), weigh it down with more seaweed and let it steam for about two to two-and-a-half hours. "Don't keep peeking in, because the heat and pressure will escape" he advises. Everything's done when the lobsters are bright red and the clams open. Make sure there's plenty of melted butter and napkins on hand, and an icy sauvignon blanc or India pale ale to wash it all down. __ DIANNE M. POGODA